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The Story Behind Tsukemen (Dipping Noodles)

Mar 2, 2019
3 min read

Updated: Sep 24

At first glance, tsukemen looks like deconstructed ramen. The noodles are served separately from the broth. You simply dip the noodles into the broth - "tsukemen" literally means "dipping noodles".


While not as well known outside of Japan, tsukemen is a massively popular offshoot of ramen. Tsukemen boasts legions of die-hard Japanese fans.

Tsukemen in Akihabara
Hiroshima Style Tsukemen in Akihabara, Tokyo

But how did this unique dish come about? What's the story behind tsukemen?


The Birth of Tsukemen


It all started in the 1950s. Ramen pioneer Kazuo Yamagishi wanted to create a hybrid food that used ramen noodles but separated the noodles from the broth, like in soba. He also wanted to create a broth that tasted both sweet and sour, similar to hiyashi chuka (cold ramen served in the summer).

Tsukemen at Higashi-Ikebukuro Taishoken
Where it all began

After much experimentation in the kitchen, in 1955 Yamagishi-san first served tsukemen to customers at a earlier outpost of Taishoken. In short, the customers loved it. Many appreciated the greater portion of noodles (vs ramen) and the somewhat familiar (hiyashi chuka) yet also meatier (ramen) taste.


Yamagishi-san's version is the one most widely credited today (rest in peace, Yamagishi-san) — though, as with many beloved dishes, the exact origins are debated. You can visit Higashi-Ikebukuro Taishoken in the Ikebukuro neighborhood of Tokyo. While it's not the original 1950s location, you'll still feel like you're stepping back in time.


The First Tsukemen Boom


Tsukemen at Taishoken
Tsukemen at Taishoken in Ikebukuro

It actually wasn't until the 1970s that this dish was referred to as "tsukemen". This coincided with the first tsukemen boom.


During the boom, more and more Japanese started to enjoy this wildly different type of ramen. Food manufacturer House Foods also started to sell tsukemen in stores and this helped it reach households across the country.


The Second Tsukemen Boom


The second tsukemen boom began in the early 2000s. The number of restaurants serving tsukemen exploded across the Kanto region (around Tokyo).

Tsukemen at Fuunji
Tsukemen at Fuunji in Shinjuku

But in the 2000s, tsukemen started to change. Restaurants like "Fuunji" and "Rokurinsha" invented a stronger tasting fish and chicken or pork broth. This broth was thicker and much more potent what the broth at Taishoken.


Thicker and flatter noodles also gained popularity. This "second boom" style of tsukemen is most common today - rich broth and thicker, flat noodles.


Tsukemen Nowadays


Beyond the tsukemen booms of the 1970s and 2000s, shops these days are open to trying new things. This is everything from chicken halal tsukemen to Italian tsukemen. Just like with ramen, tsukemen will continue to evolve.

Shrimp Tomato Tsukemen
Modern Shrimp Tomato Tsukemen at Gonokami

If you're a big fan of chewy noodles, tsukemen is an excellent choice, since the noodles are usually served cold ("hiyamori"). This and the fact that noodles are not sitting in hot broth makes them extra chewy.


While ramen may be king of Japan's noodle world, tsukemen is likely the prince.


Want to Try Tsukemen for Yourself?


Reading about tsukemen's history is one thing — tasting the difference between the original Taishoken style and the richer "second boom" style is another. Our Tokyo Ramen Guidebook covers 100 of the city's best shops, tsukemen included. Prefer a guided experience instead? A Tokyo Ramen Tour takes the guesswork out entirely.


Frequently Asked Questions


Who invented tsukemen?

Kazuo Yamagishi is the most widely credited figure, said to have served an early version in 1955 at an earlier outpost of Taishoken in Ikebukuro/Nakano. As with many dishes, the exact origins are debated — some trace early versions of the concept to other shops and chefs — but Yamagishi's account is the one most commonly cited today.


Why is tsukemen noodles served cold instead of hot?

Cold noodles ("hiyamori") stay firmer and chewier since they're not sitting in hot broth, which is part of what makes tsukemen's texture distinct from a standard bowl of ramen.


What's the difference between old-style and modern tsukemen?

The original Taishoken-era tsukemen had a lighter, sweet-and-sour broth. The "second boom" style that emerged in the 2000s, popularized by shops like Fuunji and Rokurinsha, uses a much thicker, more potent fish-and-pork or fish-and-chicken broth paired with thicker, flatter noodles.


Is tsukemen the same thing as ramen?

Not exactly. Tsukemen separates the noodles from the broth, so you dip rather than eat them submerged together — it's considered an offshoot of ramen rather than a variation within it.

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